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Greg Palast: Chewing the Buddha Bush at the Olympics格雷格palast :咀嚼佛陀布什在悉尼奧運會上

Tuesday, August 19th, 2008 週二, 2008年8月19日

Lhasa, Tibet - China’s secret police are just terrible at keeping themselves secret.西藏拉薩-中國的秘密警察,只不過是可怕的,在保持自己的秘密。

The detective, dressed in her business suit and pumps appropriate to urban Lhasa, did not expect to be trailing my wife and me up the steep hillside to a monastery 15,000 feet up an ice-crusted ridge.偵探,在她的穿著西裝,和水泵適當的城市拉薩,沒想到被尾隨我的妻子和我了陡峭的山坡上,以一個修道院一點五〇萬英尺了一個冰地殼嶺。 Even at 200 yards behind us, I could see her shivering in the thin, frozen air, trying, absurdly, to look like just another hiker on the barren slope.即使在200碼背後的我們,我可以看到她在發抖薄,冷凍空調,試圖,荒謬的,看起來像只是另一個遠足就貧瘠的斜坡。

But then, she really wasn’t trying to hide.但後來,她真的是不是要隱藏。 Her presence was meant to send a message of fear and intimidation.她的存在是為了發送郵件的恐懼和恫嚇。 I got the point earlier when a photographer we’d helped sneak into Tibet was arrested, her film of protesting Tibetans seized and her camera smashed as she was hustled onto the first plane leaving the country.我得到了一點,當一名攝影師,我們要幫助潛入西藏被逮捕,她的電影,抗議的西藏人,檢獲和她的相機,搗破,因為她此時此刻上第一架飛機離開該國。

When my police shadow looked away, I snapped a photo of the long boxes below me, roofs of the prison complex.當我和警方的陰影,期待遠離,我搶購的照片長期箱子下面,我的屋頂,監獄複雜。 It housed more Buddhist monks than any monastery.它安置更多的佛教僧侶比任何寺院。

At a hermitage carved into the summit rock I found my host sitting cross-legged under an ancient tapestry depicting a monster ready to devour quiet souls.在庵刻首腦會議的岩石我發現我的東道國坐在盤腿下,一個古老的掛毯描繪怪獸準備吃掉安靜的靈魂。

The holy man had questions for us:聖名男子的問題,我們:

Does Christianity have a god?是否有一個基督教的上帝呢? (Answer: “Sometimes.”) (回答: “有時” ) 。

What is a ‘President’?什麼是'總統'嗎?

It was 1993.這是1993年。 I told the monk the new President, Bill Clinton, had met the Dalai Lama我告訴和尚,新總統比爾克林頓曾會見達賴喇嘛

This Clinton must be a very holy and very good man, yes?這克林頓必須是一個非常神聖和很好的男子,是嗎? (”Sometimes.”) ( “有時” ) 。

It’s not that the priest avoided worldly newspapers, but he’d just gotten out of prison after 27 years and he didn’t get much news there.這並不是說牧師避免世俗的報紙,但他只希望得到走出監獄後, 27年和他並沒有獲得多少新聞。 Not that you could get any real news in Tibet.不是說你可以得到任何實質的消息,在西藏。 No journalists are allowed there.沒有任何記者都不允許有。 (Not to be impolite to their Chinese minders - or lose their lucrative Olympics deals - The New York Times and NBC cover Tibet from Beijing and Delhi. Just check the by-lines.) (不要被不禮貌向中國看管-或失去利潤豐厚的奧運交易-紐約時報和美國全國廣播公司包括西藏從北京和新德里舉行。只需選中由線) 。

I assured him that Clinton, though not quite holy, would, at the least, help Tibetans. i向他保證,克林頓,雖然不是很神聖的,會在最低限度,幫助西藏人。

That seemed easy enough as they didn’t want very much, these mountain folk.這似乎是很容易不夠,因為他們不希望十分,這些山地民歌。 They didn’t demand independence from China but, ironically, just the opposite: an opportunity to become Chinese, that is, have full access to schooling, university positions afforded their ethnic Han comrades; and to have a share of the jobs and wealth created by the uranium and other resources of their plateau nation.他們沒有要求從中國獨立,但諷刺的是,剛好相反:一有機會成為中國,即是有充分機會獲得教育,大學的立場給予他們的漢族同志,並有一個共享的工作和所創造的財富由鈾和其他資源,他們的高原民族。

And maybe something a little un-Chinese: freedom of expression, of movement, of culture, of religion.也許一些小聯合國中文:表達意見的自由,遷徙,文化,宗教。 I assured the monk that this new President would help them obtain just a bit of autonomy in the “Tibetan Autonomous Region,” as China calls it. i保證,和尚,這個新總統將幫助他們取得只是一個位元的自主權,在“西藏自治區, ”作為中國代表呼籲。

The lama smiled.喇嘛笑了。 It was not cynicism but a friendly disbelief in change happening in this coming year.這不是犬儒主義,但友好難以置信,在改變發生在這來年。 He measured change in lifetimes.他衡量的變化在有生之年實現這一目標。

He asked a student monk to pull down a small painted statue of the Buddha - which the elder man then chopped apart with a knife.他問一名學生和尚下拉一個小畫塑像佛-其中老的男子,然後斬除與刀。 He then gestured to his acolyte to give us each a piece of the icon - to eat.然後,他gestured他acolyte給我們每一塊的圖標-吃。

Swallowing the body of his Lord was not meant to make us holy but to solve a more immediate problem - lunch.吞嚥的屍體,他勳爵並不意味著使我們神聖的,但要解決一個更迫切的問題-吃午飯。 The painted god, I discovered with relief, was made out of barley, beer, rancid butter and honey.畫上帝,我發現與救濟,是出於大麥,啤酒,噎黃油和蜂蜜。

I could see that my Tibetan translator was chomping at the bit to show the old man messages we’d brought from the Dalai Lama’s Secretariat in India.我可以看到我的藏族翻譯chomping在位元,以顯示歲男子的訊息,我們要帶來的,由達賴喇嘛的秘書處在印度。 But that would have been suicide.但此舉已自殺。 The young translator’s brother (I certainly won’t use their names), a cook at a nearby temple, joined a demonstration of monks against Chinese rule and was shot dead.年輕的譯者的兄弟(當然,我將不使用他們的姓名) ,庫克在附近的廟,參加了一個示範的僧侶對中國的統治和被槍殺。 I admonished our translator that his mother couldn’t afford to lose her last remaining child. i告誡我們的翻譯說,他的母親無法承受失去她的最後剩下的兒童。

Instead, we gave the lama a postcard printed with the image of the multi-armed god Chenrezig.相反,我們給達賴喇嘛的明信片印有形象,多武裝上帝chenrezig 。 The priest would know, but the Chinese wouldn’t, that Tenzin Gyatso, the current Dalai Lama, is a reincarnation of this god.牧師會知道,但中國不會,丹增嘉措,目前達賴喇嘛,是一個輪迴的這個上帝。

“Ta la’i bla ma tshur log pa,” I said in my ridiculous Tibetan. “電訊管理局局長la'i血乳酸馬tshur日誌壩,他說: ”我在我的荒謬的西藏。 The Dalai Lama will return.達賴喇嘛會回來。

We all return, he indicated, though not necessarily in this body.我們所有的回報,他表示,雖然不一定在本機構中。

The shivering “tourist” policewoman waited for us to leave before she entered the sanctuary.該寒戰的“旅遊”女警在等待我們離開之前,她進入庇護所。 I can only imagine the questions she’d asked.我只能想像的問題,她要問。

Ta la’i bla ma tshur log pa.電訊管理局局長la'i血乳酸馬tshur日誌壩。 The point of our heading deep into Tibet’s wastelands was to spread the word that the Dalai Lama hadn’t abandoned his people as the Chinese propagandists told them on radio, on loudspeakers, and through their local quislings.這一點我們的標題,深入到西藏的荒地是為了傳播這個詞表示,達賴喇嘛一直沒有放棄他的人民,隨著中國宣傳員告訴他們在電台上,揚聲器,並通過其本地quislings 。 (My favorite notice was a warning by Chinese authorities that they must “approve all re-incarnations.” That was meant to avoid the Dalai Lama locating the new child containing the soul of the Panchen Lama, the Dalai Lama’s missing, and obviously murdered, number two man.) (我最喜愛的公告是一個警告中國當局,他們必須“批准所有轉口的化身” ,這是為了避免達賴喇嘛尋找新的兒童載的靈魂,班禪喇嘛,達賴喇嘛的失踪,並有明顯殺害,人數2名男子) 。

On to another monastery with the postcard and the message.對到另一個修道院與明信片和訊息。 The old nuns would put the postcard over their eyes and forehead and turn to bow into the sun’s rays, the symbol of Free Tibet.老修女會提出的明信片超過他們的眼睛和前額及轉入低頭到太陽的射線,象徵自由的西藏。

One monastery was quiet.一修道院平靜。 In a land where you see the clouds below you, not above, sunlight is brutally harsh.在土地的地方,你看到雲層下面你,而不是以上,陽光是殘酷的苛刻。 Every image stands out in painful, unforgettable clarity.每一個形象脫穎而出,在痛苦的,難忘的清晰。 This emptied place had been smashed into ruins by the Red Guards.這掏空的地方,已被瓦解成廢墟中由紅衛兵。 They’d arrested all the monks they hadn’t gunned down, some of the 200,000 Tibetans killed by the Chinese in their ethnic “re-education” campaign.他們想要逮捕所有的和尚,他們沒有射殺的,部分的20.0萬西藏人死亡,由中國,在他們的種族“再教育”運動。

But the troops had left standing a wall of painted Buddhas, dozens and dozens of them.但部隊已離開常委會牆畫佛像,數十座。 The Chinese cadres were certain the magic powers of these religious images were bunkum.中國幹部被某些魔術的權力,這些宗教圖像bunkum 。 Nevertheless, just in case, they’d put a bullet hole in each Buddha’s forehead.不過,剛剛在情況下,他們要提出一個彈孔,在每一個佛陀的前額。

Back down in the city, another plainclothesman, a grinning Chinese man, greeted me in the parking lot of the Lhasa Sheraton - in English, “Glad to see you again!”回到在城市,另一個便衣, grinning中國籍男子,迎接我在停車場的拉薩喜來登-在英語, “很高興看到你再次” !

Again?再次?

“Oh, don’t you remember me? “哦,你不記得我嗎? I was standing outside the Dalai Lama’s in Delhi.”我站在外面達賴喇嘛的在德里“ 。

“Um, I was there to, you know, get some maps and, uh, some postcards.” “嗯,我是在那裡,你知道,得到一些地圖和,嗯,一些明信片” 。

OK This is my warning.確定這是我的警告。 Say something, Palast.說一些, palast 。 I tried this:我嘗試這:

“That’s nice!” He stepped closer and grinned harder. “的美好! ”他加強更緊密的和笑著更難。 “I have some books for you about Tibet” - some propaganda about Tibetans as cannibals (really). “我有一些書籍,為大家介紹西藏” -一些宣傳西藏人作為食(真的) 。 He paused, grinned even harder, then added, “I left them in your room.”他已暫停,笑著更難,然後補充說: “我離開他們在您的房間” 。

In my room?在我的房間? Another warning.再一次警告。

I wasn’t worried about the bed search.我並不擔心床上搜索。 The envelope the Dalai Lama’s Secretariat had given us had already been delivered to persons whose identities we made certain not to know.信封達賴喇嘛的秘書處已經給了我們已經交付的人的身份,我們取得了一定的不知道。

*

In his fleeting moment as President, Bill Clinton didn’t have time to remember Tibet.在他短暫的時刻,作為總統,比爾克林頓沒有時間去記得西藏。 More pressing to him was free trade - with Mexico via NAFTA - and free trade with China, to which he granted Most Favored Nation status.更迫切的,他是自由貿易-與墨西哥通過北美自由貿易協定-與中國的自由貿易,因為他給予的最惠國待遇地位。

*

That May, we left just as the streets were filling with Tibetans demonstrating for freedom.可能,我們離開,正如街道加油站與西藏人示威的自由。 They would never be seen on US TV.他們將永遠不會出現在美國電視。 Not then, not now.沒有然後,而不是現在。 NBC will interrupt the Beijing Summer Olympics only to broadcast its millionth ad for McDonald’s.全國廣播公司將打斷北京夏季奧運會,只播出其百萬分之一的廣告,麥當勞的。

George Bush is there; says he was thrilled that the Chinese dictator, Hu Jintao, invited him and Laura and the kids to lunch.布什是有;說,他非常激動表示,中國的獨裁者,胡錦濤,邀請他和勞拉和孩子們共進午餐。 I doubt if they dined on a barley Buddha.我懷疑,如果他們享用了一大麥佛像。

In the 1936 Olympics in Nazi Berlin, Americans knew that the competition was as much over our national souls as our physical prowess.在1936年奧運會在納粹柏林,美國人知道,競爭是多過我們國家的靈魂,作為我們身體的實力。 When Jesse Owens, a Black man, left Hitler’s Aryan runners eating his dust, America jumped to its feet and cheered - not just for what he did, but for who we are: for liberty and justice for all.當傑西歐文斯,一名黑人男子,左希特勒的雅利安人亞軍,吃他的灰塵,美國躍升至其英尺和歡呼聲-不只是為他的所作所為,但我們是誰:為自由和正義。

Now, our Olympic Committee cravenly demands our athletes remain silent about Tibet.現在,我們的奧林匹克委員會cravenly要求我們的運動員保持沉默,有關西藏的。 But they shouldn’t bother: Bush has already won the gold medal in the Cowardly Silence competition.但他們不應該理會:布什已贏得了金牌,在膽怯的沉默的競爭。

*

On the way to the Lhasa airport, leaving those occupied territories, I thought I could see, looking into the harsh glare, the Buddhist hermitage just below the Himalayan crest.就未來路向拉薩機場,離開這些被佔領土,我以為我可以看到,尋找到苛刻的眩光,佛教埃爾米塔日僅低於喜馬拉雅壩頂。 I asked my guide if he’d heard from the old monk.我問我的指南,如果他想要聽到從舊的和尚。 I was told that, days after our visit, he raised the Tibetan sun-flag and was arrested.有人告訴我,天之後,我們的訪問,他提出了西藏太陽旗及被警方拘捕。

The foolish Chinese undoubtedly would have sentenced him to only one life in prison.愚蠢的中國,無疑將有判處他只有一個終身監禁。

He would return.他將返回。



Have Your Say: Greg Palast: Chewing the Buddha Bush at the Olympics 你說:格雷格palast :咀嚼佛陀布什在悉尼奧運會上
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